Stand Restaurant – Budapest

A bold redefinition of Hungarian classics where heritage meets haute cuisine

Anna Tóth

7 min read

The Genesis of Stand: A Hungarian Culinary Renaissance

In the heart of Budapest’s vibrant Terézváros district, at Székely Mihály utca 2, Stand Restaurant emerges not merely as a fine‑dining venue but as a bold proclamation of modern Hungarian identity. Founded and helmed by celebrated chef‑owners Tamás Széll and Szabina Szulló, both veterans of the iconic Onyx restaurant and pioneers in their own right, Stand opened its doors amid high expectations. Within a remarkably short span it earned its first two Michelin stars—an achievement that firmly established it as the pinnacle of Hungary’s gastronomy. The remarkable ascent to two stars came by 2022 and was confirmed again in the 2024 Michelin Guide.

This acclaim is not accidental. Széll, a European-level Bocuse d’Or winner who went on to claim bronze in the 2023 world final, and Szulló, his chef‑partner and equal creative force, approach Hungarian cuisine with reverence intertwined with audacity. Their philosophy is rooted in local terroir—paprika‑tinged broths, smoked freshwater fish, wild game meats—and elevated via contemporary technique, precise plating, and thoughtful storytelling. Their goal is clear: to reflect Hungary’s culinary heritage while molding it into an elegant, refined modern language.

The Space: Crystal and Culinary Theatre

As you approach Székely Mihály utca 2, the façade may appear discreet, yet inside awaits an interior framed by marble and glass. The dining room is flanked by an open, glass‑walled kitchen, the beating heart of the restaurant, enabling guests to see a legion of cooks in silent choreography. The layout fosters an interactive energy: diners witness technique and timing unfold firsthand, while chefs perform their craft in measured precision.

The décor is understated yet chic, with muted tones and polished surfaces. It does not distract from the food. Instead, it reflects the ethos of Széll and Szulló: elegant, focused, intentional. The ambiance is vibrant yet respectful—a buzz permeates the room, enlivened by conversations about flavor, provenance, and presentation.

Chef‑Owners: Széll and Szulló’s Philosophy

Tamás Széll and Szabina Szulló share more than a kitchen—they share a vision. Both return to Hungary after distinguished international experience, and at Stand they channel that global exposure into reworking local dishes with aerodynamic precision. They emphasize sustainability and seasonal sourcing, selecting ingredients that speak of Hungary’s varied landscapes—from the clear waters of Lake Balaton and the Danube to the rolling vineyards of Tokaj and Eger.

Széll’s reputation is built upon competitive culinary success, notably representing Hungary at Bocuse d’Or, and crafting dishes with technical brilliance. Meanwhile Szulló’s deep understanding of Hungarian families’ food lore provides emotional grounding. Together, they propose that fine dining need not abandon memory, tradition, or community—instead, it can celebrate and elevate them without sentimentality.

The Dining Experience: Elegance Without Elitism

Guests have described Stand as a place where service is upfront but never obsequious. According to diner testimonials, the servers deliver each plate in synchronization, clear plates the instant everyone is finished, and explain courses with clarity yet warmth. One recent visitor noted that even a skeptic of high‑end dining left “pleasantly surprised” by the portions and storytelling embedded in each dish.

Reservations are essential and often must be made weeks or months in advance. The dinner service runs from Tuesday through Saturday, evenings only, typically beginning at 18:00 and continuing until midnight. The experience is designed to span two to three hours—long enough to unfold the narrative of taste but carefully orchestrated to respect the guest’s time.

Reputation and Reception: Hungary’s Pinnacle

Stand is widely regarded as the best restaurant in Budapest. Fellow aficionados on travel forums and Reddit praise it as the city’s top culinary experience—with some reviewers urging that Stand surpasses all other fine dining options in the capital. While other esteemed venues like Costes, Borkonyha, Babel, Salt, and Rumour all hold Michelin stars, none achieve the two-star standard of Stand.

Critics of the fine dining elite occasionally point to the price structure—an eight‑course tasting menu costs around €230 per person, rising to approximately €400 with wine pairing. Additional items such as bottled water can draw scrutiny. Though the cuisine is lauded, some individual reviewers found it technically accomplished but less memorable emotionally—though those voices are in the minority.

Nonetheless, most assessments affirm that Stand delivers its two Michelin stars in full: technical mastery, creative reinterpretation of regional ingredients, thoughtful pacing, and an unshakeable commitment to Hungarian identity on the world stage.

A Typical Evening at Stand

Upon arrival, guests are welcomed into a calm vestibule leading to a modern, airy dining room. Cocktails and aperitifs may be offered, setting a tone of refined expectation. The chef unveils each course slowly: each dish arrives with a concise narrative—whether reflecting Széll’s childhood in rural Hungary, Szulló’s grandmother’s goulash, or the symbolic role of sterlet as an interface between freshwater ecosystems.

Throughout the meal, staff move quietly, yet with precision: plates are set with quiet confidence, water topped up with minimal intrusion, wine glasses refreshed, and discussion encouraged. At the end of the eight‑course menu, a somlói dessert—Hungary’s classic sponge, chocolate, rum, and nut confection—appears in a re‑imagined form: elegant, deconstructed, yet evocative of its rustic origins.

Guests leave with a printed menu as a keepsake, often surprised by the generosity of quantity and welcome surprises—“chef’s gifts”—that punctuate the courses. Many describe leaving not satiated by volume but enriched by experience.

Practical Information for Visitors

Stand Restaurant is located at Székely Mihály utca 2, 1061 Budapest, in Terézváros. It operates for dinner only, Tuesday through Saturday, typically between 18:00 and midnight, and closed Sundays and Mondays. Reservations are required and should be made well in advance via email at info@standrestaurant.hu, or through the official website reservation form; telephone inquiries can be directed to +36 30 785 9139.

The tasting menus are fixed in structure—either six or eight courses—with a starting price around €230, rising to approximately €400 with full wine pairing. The wines emphasize Hungarian producers, especially sweet Tokaji and red wines from regions like Villány and Eger.

Stand is not geared toward young children or pets. The managing team does not encourage small children or babies due to the duration (2.5–3.5 hours) and focused environment, and requests that four-legged companions remain at home. Dress code is smart casual; guests are encouraged to express personal style but most opt for elegant attire. Parking is not available on site; guests may park on the street or in nearby garages—the closest being Care Park Parking House at Székely Mihály utca 3.

Situated centrally, Stand is within walking distance of landmarks like Andrássy Avenue, the Opera House, and the vibrant Jewish Quarter. After dinner, one can explore nearby wine bars, ruin pubs, or historic cafés for a nightcap in Budapest’s pulsating social scene.

If you’re celebrating a special occasion, are an admirer of refined reinterpretation of local cuisine, or simply want to engage with Hungarian food elevated to international standards, Stand rewards those whose expectations include intellectual rigour as much as gustatory excellence.

Official Links

For reservations, menus, and full information, visit the official website
https://standrestaurant.hu/en

Follow their social media for updates:
Instagram: @standrestaurant
Facebook: Stand Restaurant

The Menu as Narrative: Tradition Transformed

Stand offers exclusive tasting menus. Guests may select a six‑ or eight‑course tasting menu, each designed to engage memory and surprise the palate. The menus are structured around refined Hungarian classics: a gulyás soup re‑imagined with delicate tortellini stuffed with smoked carp, in a paprika‑rich broth; or sterlet fillet, rolled and crowned with roe, drowned in a clam sauce scented with dill and a single strand of caviar—an interplay of freshwater heritage and coastal finesse.

Other signature offerings include charcoal‑grilled saddle of venison paired with fondant potato, a cherry and blackcurrant jam, and barbecue jus—a dish that bridges masculine intensity with elegant refinement. The tasting menus evolve with the seasons, always grounded in Hungarian terroir and technique but never predictable.

Technical Brilliance in Every Bite

Stand’s visual and gustatory execution is meticulous. The open kitchen reveals chefs focusing on mise‑en‑place: filleting sterlet, shaping trout dumplings, layering minimalist dessert constructions. The plating aesthetic is modern and minimalist, but each element is deliberate in color, form, texture, and aroma. The seasoning is balanced; the contrasts sharp but harmonious. Every aroma and garnish is timed to awaken a memory: a hint of dill to recall childhood soups; a whisper of smoke to evoke bonfires on the riverbank.

Even the finishing touches—bread service, palate‑cleansing sorbets, custards—are choreographed with precision. Redolent of artisan boulangerie without pomposity, the bread selection is often praised as unexpectedly substantial. At Stand, nothing is incidental and everything contributes to the narrative of modernization tempered by familial respect.

The Wine List: Hungarian Pride in a Glass

Behind every tasting menu stands a wine program curated to elevate the cuisine. Head sommelier János Gervai, himself a winemaker, builds the list around Hungarian regions: crisp dry whites and sweet Tokaji from the north, robust reds from Villány, elegant bubbles from Kreinbacher. Pairings are calculated to accentuate both food and wine—sharp acidic whites to lift fatty carp or gulyás, weighty reds to accompany venison. Many guests opt for full wine pairings, which elevate the dinner from haute cuisine to sensory immersion.

Awarded with the Grand Distinction

Stand Restaurant in Budapest is a true celebration of modern Hungarian cuisine, where tradition meets innovation with exceptional precision. Led by acclaimed chefs Szulló Szabina and Széll Tamás, the restaurant offers a refined tasting experience that honors local ingredients, seasonal rhythms, and culinary heritage without compromise. From the elegant presentation to the depth of flavor in every dish, Stand consistently delivers a level of excellence that goes beyond expectation. For its outstanding commitment to quality, creativity, and cultural authenticity, it has been rightfully awarded the Grand Distinction.